M o lecu la r Ga str o n o m y w it h a M o d e r n Re te ll in g

In 1 9 6 9 , Ni ch o las K u rti a Univ e rsi ty of Ox fo rd p h y sici st rem a rked th a t “… it is a sa d re f lec tio n on our ci v il i z a tio n th a t w h il e we ca n a n d do m e a su re th e te m p e ratu re in th e a tmos p h e re of V e n u s we do n o t k n o w w h a t g o e s on insid e o u r s o u ff l é s” . 1 K u rti b e li e v e d th a t t h e d isco v e r y of n e w f o o d w o u ld b ri n g m o re h a p p ine ss th a n o t h e r scien ti f ic p u rsuits. A f t e r m a n y ye a rs d o i n g p h y sics rese a rch K u rti so u g h t to f u lf il l t h is b e li e f by p e r f o rm i n g fo o d rese a rch u sing h is p r e v iou s kn o w led g e of p h y sics to h is a d v a n t a g e .

T h is w a s th e f ir st st e p in th e cr e a ti o n of t h e f i e ld of m o lec u lar g a stron o m y . K u rti w e n t on to d iscov e r new te c h n iq u e s a n d a lon g w ith Herv e T h is, an u n d e rstud y of so rts, b e g a n a se ri e s of w o rksho p s th a t wo u ld se rv e as th e fo u n d a tio n fo r t h e f iel d as it e x ists to d a y . K u rti p a ss e d a w a y in th e w a n ing y e a rs of t h e tw e n tie th c e n t u ry but h is leg a cy li v e d on in th e w o rksho p s a n d t h e f i e ld itse l f .

T h is is t h e s to ry th a t h a s co n tin u a ll y b e e n t o ld, e s p e cially in r e ce n t y e a rs as th e p o p u lari ty of th e f ield g row s. Upo n d e e p e r e x a m in a tio n th is st o ry is e x p o se d as a fa b ri ca tio n . It is e a sy to f a ll b a ck on a sto ry whe n a tt e m p tin g to e x p lain so m e t h ing so co m p l e x but t h e tru th r e v e a ls o th e r c h a ract e r s w h o se co n trib u tio n s a re u n fa ir ly s w e p t a w a y wi th o u t t a rnish in g th o se of K u rti a n d T h is. In a d d iti o n by loo king at th e tru e se q u e n ce of e v e n ts, it b e co m e s p o ssible to u n d e rsta n d w h y a ce rtai n sto ry w a s ch o se n and th e so cial co n d itio n s th a t le d to su ch a t a le.

T h is fa b ri ca t io n g o e s a ll th e w a y b a ck to t h e b e g inn ing of th e f iel d w h ich is m u c h m u rki e r th a n th e ta le s u g g e sts. A ll th e w a y b a ck in 1 7 9 4 , S ir B e n ja m in T h o m p so n

1 K urt i , N i cho l as, B ut t he C r ac k l i ng Is S up erb . I nsti t ute of P hy si cs P ub l i shi n g. 1998

b e tt e r kn o w n as Co u n t Rumfo rd p u b li sh e d an e ssa y in w h ich he re m a rked t h a t th e a p p li ca tio n of ch e m istr y a nd o t h e r b ra n ch e s of sci e n ce to c o o ke ry was so a p p a ren t th a t he p re d icte d scien ti f ic inv e stig a tio n in th e a l m o st im m e d iat e f u tu re. 2 Cou n t R u m fo rd b e li e v e d th e a d v a n ta g e s w e re so o b v iou s t h a t w ith o u t h e sita tio n so m e e n li g h te n e d scien tist w o u ld th r o w o ff hi s o th e r w o rk and b e g in to rea p t h e a d v a n t a g e s of s u ch a p p li ca tio n . This w a s th e b a sic ide a f o r m o l e cu lar g a stron o m y but it w o u ld b e co m e d iffe ren tia te d o v e r th e u p co m ing y e a rs. T h e ide a of a p p ly ing scien ce to fo o d ca n e v e n be trac e d b a ck to se c o n d ce n tu ry BC f ro m an int a ct p a p y rus th a t w e ig h e d th e d iffe ren c e s in m e a t fo ll o w ing d iff e ren t p roc e s se s su ch as fe rm e n ta tio n a n d c o o king . In th e e a rl y 1 9 th c e n t u ry M a ri e - A n to ine Car ê m e , a fa m o u s Fr e n ch c h e f, inv e stig a te d t h e p rop e r m e t h o d of m a king fo o d sto cks. In 1 7 8 3 A n t o ine - L a u re n t de L a v o isi e r b e tt e r kn o w n fo r h is co n tribu ti o n s to th e f il e d of ch e m istry and d e a t h by g u il lot ine in t h e Fr e n ch Rev o lut ion stu d ied th e d iffe ren t d e n sities of fo o d st o cks in o rde r to e v a lua te q u a li ty .

T h e se a re o n ly th e p re - 2 0 th c e n t u ry co n tribu t o rs and th e y co m e no w h e re close to b e ing inv o lv e d in th e ta le th a t h a s b e e n w o v e n a b o u t m o lecu lar g a st ron o m y . It is ce rtain t h a t th e f o u n d a t ion s f o r t h e f i e ld w e re se t m a n y y e a rs b e f o r e e v e n th e b ir th of K u rti.

On e of t h e o th e r m a in d iscr e p a n ci e s b e side s th e d ism issal of t h e e a rl y int e rw o rki n g of cu isi n e and sci e n ce is th e d i ff e ren tia tio n or lack th e r e o f b e tw e e n g a stron o m y and fo o d s cien ce . Foo d scien c e is th e g e n e ral f iel d f o r t h e a p p li ca tio n of scien ce to fo o d a n d th e e a rl y fo cu s of fo o d s cien ce w a s in th e m o le cu lar int e ract i o n in

2 Sir B en j amin T ho m pso n , On t he con s t r uc t i on of k i t c he n f i r ep l ace s and k i t che n utensi l s, t o g ethe r w i t h r e m ar ks an d ob serv atio ns r el atin g to t he v ario us proces ses of coo k e r y , and proposa l s f or i m prov i ng t ha t m ost use f ul ar t . 17 9 4.

fo o d sy ste m s. In 1 9 3 2 P ro f e ss o r B e ll e L o w e p u b li sh e d a b o o k title d E xp e ri m e n ta l Coo ke ry: Fr o m th e Ch e m ical A n d P h ysical S t a n d p o int w h ich w a s a sta n d a rd t e x tb o o k fo r e m e rg ing f ield of h o m e e co n o m ics. T h is b o o k co n ta in e d m a n y d iffe ren t e x p e ri m e n ts and re fe ren c e d m a n y of th e e a rl ier w o rk in th e f ield . W i t h ch a p t e rs fo cu sing on th e co a g u lat ion of p rot e ins , f a ct o rs a ff e ctin g th e v iscosity of cr e a m a n d o th e r sim il a r fo cu se s , it is e a sy to s e e w h e re th e co n f u si o n ca n a ri se . 3 W i th a t a b le of c o n t e n ts th a t co u ld be co n f u s e d fo r a u n iv e rsi ty scien ce cu rr iculu m it b e co m e s e x trem e ly d i ff icult to d iffe ren tia te th is f ro m t h e f iel d of m o lecu lar g a stron o m y . A n o th e r g rou p in th is f i e ld a r e E v e l y n Halli d a y and Is a b e l No b le w h o w e re b o th h o m e e co n o m ics p rofe sso rs w h o p u b li sh e d a b o o k Fo o d Che m istry and Coo k e ry th a t co n ta in e d si m il a r title s as L o w e s w o rk. 4 Halli d a y and No b le s w o rk w a s e v e n m o re scien ti f ic w ith loo ks int o t h ing s su ch as h y d rog e n ion co n c e n trat ion a n d il lust ratio ns of la b e x p e ri m e n ts. For a n y o n e lo o king at th is f i e ld its v e ry d iff i cu lt to f ig u re out w h y t h e se a re n o t c o n sid e re d to be p a rt of t h e li n e a g e of m o lecu lar g a stron o m y . In trut h th e m o d e r n m e a n ing of g a stron o m y is ce rtain ly b u il t on th e w o rks of t h e h o m e e co n o m ics p r o f e sso rs of t h e e a rl y 2 0 th ce n tu ry and e v e n th o se of t h e 1 9 th ce n tu ry as th e te c h n iq u e s th a t w e re d isc o v e red w o u ld be u tili z e d in th e f i e ld in la te r y e a rs.

W h i le t h e w o rk of e a rl ier f o o d scien c e is a p a rt of m o lec u lar g a stron o m y th e re is a clea r d e li n e a tio n b e t w e e n th e tw o f ield s . S o m e of th e co n fu sio n t h a t a ri se s w h e n ty ing f o o d scien ce a n d g a stron o m y d ir e ctly to g e th e r is b e c a u s e of th e ch o ic e of n a m e . T h e n a m e m o lec u lar g a stron o m y w a s ch o se n b e ca u se in th e o rg a n i z ing of th e f ir st

3 B el l e Lo w e, E x pe r i m en t al C oo k e r y : Fro m t he C he m i cal and P hy si cal S t a nd po i nt( N ab u P r e ss: 19 32 ) .

4 E v el y n G. H al i da y and I sab el T. N ob l e, Food C he m i st r y and C oo k ery ( U n i v ersity of C hi ca g o P r ess: 19 43 ) .

w o rksho p in 1 9 9 2 , th e d ir e cto r of th e v e n u e w h e re t h e g a t h e ri n g w a s to be h e ld w a n te d a m o re fa n ci f u l title . 5 So in o rd e r to m e e t th e w h im sy of th e d ir e ct o r th e w o rd m o lecu lar w a s added to th e title of scien c e a n d g a stro n o m y . T o d a y th e m isno m e r h a s st u ck a n d is not re p rese n ta tiv e of th e w o rk th a t is g o ing on. In t h e e a rl y 1990s th e n a m e re fe rr e d to th e w a y scien tists e x a m ine d w h a t h a p p e n e d in fo o d at a s m a ll e r lev e l m o stly in relat ion to p a st recip e s and te c h n iq u e s. L a t e r on t h e f i e ld d e v e lop e d and b e g a n to mo ve m o re a w a y f ro m its stri ct scien ti f ic ro o ts to a m o re u n iq u e a rtist ic b ran d of co o king . Now a d a y s ch e f s t h a t w o u ld te ch n ic a ll y be classif ie d as m o lecu lar g a stron o m ists a re rej e ctin g th e t e rm fo r th e c o ld scien ti f ic n a t u re of t h e n a m e . The re is a b e li e f th a t w a s sh a re d at th e 2 0 0 9 M a d ri d F u sion c o n f e r e n ce th a t t h e n a m e d o e s n t p rop e rl y d e f ine th e ir work at t h e in te rsect io n of scien c e , a rt, p sy ch o l o g y and co o king .

E v e n th o u g h th e y a g ree th a t t h e t e rm m o l e cu l a r g a stron o m y is not a p p rop ri a t e , e v e n w ith th e b e n e f it of h ind sig h t th e y a re u n a b l e to a g ree on a clea r d e f i n ition and d istinct io n b e tw e e n g a stro n o m y and scie n ce . As a resu l t of t h is lack of d e f initio n it ca n b e co m e d iff ic u lt to u n d e rst a n d just h o w th e f ield sta rte d a n d f ro m w h o m it b e g a n .

T h e o t h e r m a in a rea of th e cr e a tio n of th e f iel d is f o c u se d on th e w o rksho p s o rg a n iz e d d u ri n g th e e a rl y 1 9 9 0 s. The se w o rksho p s b a se d in E ri ce , S ici ly ca m e to be k n o w n as th e E ri ce w o rksho p s a n d h a v e b e e n a tt ri b u te d to K u rti a n d T h is. The st o ry wr o n g l y d iscr e d its E li za b e t h Caw d ry T h o m a s w h o w a s inst rum e n t a l in th e f o r m a tio n of th e w o rksho p . T h o m a s w a s m a rr ied to a p h y sici st and ra n a co o ki n g sch o o l in B e rkele y , Califo rnia. Tho m a s is o n e of t h e fe w A m e ri ca n s w h o w a s d e e p ly inv o l v e d in th e m o v e m e n t . In a 1 9 9 2 let te r p ro fe sso r Ug o V a ldre cr e d ite d T h o m a s w ith co m ing up

5 H el st on B l umen t ha l , Fe r r an A dria and H arol d M c G ee , M i sno m er of a N a m e” . ( M ad r i d Fu si on 20 09 ) . T r an sc r i be d by H ea t he r S pe r l i ng .

w ith th e m a in id e a fo r t h e w o rksho p and w a s su rpri se d at her l a ck of p rev a len ce in th e li te ratu re. 6 V a ldre rema rked th a t t h e p o ssibili ty fo r T h o m a s n o t b e ing li ste d in th e Org a n iz in g Com m itt e e w a s to a v o id p u b li city fo r her Co o king S ch o o l. E v e n K u rti in a let te r to th e a n o t h e r o r g a n iz e r cr e d ite d T h o m a s w ith sp a rki n g o ff t h e p rojec t and b e i n g inst rumen ta l in th e p r o g ress of th e w o rksho p . 7 Y e t w ith in th e s a m e l e tt e r K u rti re f e rr e d to E li z a b e th T h o m a s as a rep rese n ta tiv e of t h e d o m e stic ch e f . K u rti d id n o t g iv e th e sa m e a lm o st co n d e sc e n d ing rep rese n ta tio n of th e o th e r tw o co - o rg a n iz e rs. In h is d e scri p tio n of th e e v e n t to t h e d ir e cto r of t h e Cen te r w h e re th e w o rksho p w a s to be h e ld, K u rti d e scri b e d Dr . Haro ld M cGe e a n d Dr . Herv e T h is as b o t h incre d ible c o o ks and sci e n tists w ith g low in g resu m e s of p u b li c a tio n s and a cco m p li sh m e n ts. K u rti a lr e a d y had s tron g relat io n s w i th b o th as he h a d rev ie w e d M cGe e s w o rk and h a d a ssist e d This w ith h is o n g o ing d isser ta tio n o n ly a fe w m o n t h s p ri o r. He a lso ro u ti n e ly v is ite d th e tw o and had a m u c h clos e r relat ion th a n T h o m a s w h o he h a d o n ly been int rod u c e d to in th e p rev iou s y e a r wi th ir reg u lar co rr e sp o n d e n c e by m a il rep rese n tin g a l m o st th e w h o le of th e ir relat io n sh ip. It m a ke s se n se th a t K u rti w o u ld p re f e r to w o rk wi th tw o p e o p le he co n side re d f ri e n d s a n d co ll e a g u e s ins te a d of so m e o n e he b a rely kn e w but by no m e a n s doe th a t m a ke it f a ir . K u rti e n d e d up e x clud ing th e fo u n d ing m e m b e r of t h e g rou p th a t c a m e up w ith th e id e a as w e ll as one w h o w a s in th e w o rds of Ug o V a ldre inst ru m e n ta l to th e st a rting , o rg a n izat ion and su cce ss fu l a ch iev e m e n t of th e E ri c e W o rks h o p on M o lecu lar Ga str o n o m y . W h e n th e p a m p h let ca m e o u t a d v e rtisi n g th e e v e n t , T h o m a s n a m e w a s a lm o st i m p o ssi b le to f i n d w h il e K u rt i, This a n d M cGe e e n j o y e d e x trem e p rom in e n ce on th e f ro n t co v e r. V a ldre w e n t on to e la b o rat e in h is l e tt e r to T h o m a s th a t

6 U g o V al dre, l et t er to E l i zab eth C aw dry T ho m as. M arch 9, 1992.

7 N i cho l as K urt i , l et t er to H arol d M cG ee . Jul y 28, 1991.

he d is a g ree d w ith her l a ck of i n clusio n a n d th e rea so n s t h a t K u rti cit e d . E v e n M cGe e has co m e o u t m o re rec e n tl y to b ri n g cr e d it to T h o m a s a n d in h is o w n w o rds p lacin g her co n tribu ti o n on par w ith K u rti. M cGe e l e f t th e o rg a n iz ing co m m itte e a f te r t h e f ir st w o rksho p in 1 9 9 2 le a v ing K u rti a n d T h is as th e p ree m in e n t m e m b e r s of t h e w o rksho p w h ich th e y w o u ld rema in u n ti l K u rti s d e a th six y e a rs lat e r. T h is w o u l d co n tin u e to run th e w o rksho p w ith th e n a m e ch a n g e d to th e I n te rna tio n a l W o rks h o p on M o lec u lar Ga stron o m y N. K u rti ’” . In 1 9 9 5 T h is p u b li sh e d h is d o ct o ral d issert a tio n title d M o l e cu lar and P h y sical Ga stron o m y i n w h ich he laid out th e o b jec tiv e s of th e f i e ld. 8 Dr . T h is in e ff e ct e st a b li sh e d h i m s e lf as t h e fa t h e r of m o l e cu lar g a stron o m y by ca ll ing h im se l f its fo u n d e r.

Now th a t it is clea r t h a t Tho m a s w a s cu t out of cr e d it fo r th e E ri ce w o rksho p it is im p o rt a n t to a tt e m p t to u n d e rstan d p recis e ly w h y sh e w a s not cr e d it e d a p p ro p ri a te ly .

L ike B e ll e L o w e , E v e lyn Halli d a y and Isa b e l Nob le T h o m a s h a d no fo rm a li z e d scien ti f ic train ing . S h e p icke d up her k n o w led g e f rom relat ion s h ips w ith her f ir st h u s b a n d w h o w a s a ph y sici st and h is co ll e a g u e s w ith w h o m sh e had ca su a l co n v e rsat ion . It b e ca m e e a sy to p ig e o n h o le T h o m a s in w ith th e f o u n d e rs of t h e h o m e e co n o m ics m o v e m e n t.

S h e w a s a w o m a n w ith no fo rm a li z e d scien ti f i c kn o w led g e w h o e n jo y e d co o king . K u rti e v e n ca ll e d her a rep re se n ta tio n of t h e d o m e s tic ch e f . S h e h a d c o m e up w ith a b ri ll ian t ide a to b ri n g a ll t h e se p e rson s to g e th e r b u t s h e w a s not v ie w e d on t h e sa m e lev e l as p e o p le li ke K u rti or T h i s w h o had fo rm a li z e d scien ti f ic train ing a lo n g w ith y e a rs of p u tt ing th e m to w o rk in th e kitc h e n . As a resu lt it w a s p o ssible th a t h e r skil ls w e re g rea tl y d iscou n te d a f t e r b e i n g lum p e d in w ith a g rou p th a t a lso s trug g les to g e t reco g n ition .

8 T hi s, H e r v e, " La g as t r on omie m ol é cul ai r e et ph y si q ue ( P hD di ss . , U ni v ersity of P aris V I ) 19 95 .

T h e w o rk of th e h o m e e co n o m ics p ro f e ss o r of th e e a rl y 2 0 th ce n tu ry a lso d e se rv e at th e v e r y lea st so m e cr e d it fo r th e f o u n d a tio n th e y laid f o r lat e r scien tists . E v e n so m e of t h e e x p e ri m e n ts th e y d id w o u ld not h a v e loo k e d o u t of p lac e at th e E ri ce w o rksho p s as th e y a p p ro a ch e d fo o d to p ic s f r o m v e ry scien tif ic p e rspe ctiv e s. Y e t t h e y to o h a v e b e e n th row n a side fo r th e y d id not sh o w th e cr e a tiv ity th a t lat e r m a le co u n t e rpa rts d i d . T h is is a kn o w n p ro b lem in t h e w o rl d of f o o d e sp e ci a ll y w h e n it co m e s to c h e f s. A ll f o u r of th e se w o m e n w o u ld be classif i e d as ch e fs and a re not a lon e in rec e i v ing less th a n a d e q u a t e rec o g n ition . In S a n P e ll e g ri n o s li st of th e w o rl d s 50 B e st Rest a u ra n ts o n ly tw o w o m e n a p p e a r, b o th o n e h a l f of a m a le fe m a le te a m . 9 W o m e n a re ce rtain ly u n d e r rep rese n te d in th e cu li n a ry w o rl d and h a v e b e e n fo r so m e time. M a n y h a v e sp e cu lat e d on t h e c a u se s w ith so m e fo cu sing on t h e d i ff icultie s of m o th e rh o o d co u p le d w ith a d e m a n d ing job , o th e rs sp e cu la tin g a b o u t t h e f a u lt w ith in th e kitch e n a tmos p h e re or in th e m e d ia p o rtr a y a l of h ig h p ro f il e m a le c h e f s . W h a t e v e r th e re a l re a so n ma y b e , it ca n n o t be ig n o red th a t th e re e x ists a stig m a t o w a rds w o m e n w h e n it co m e s to th e kitch e n . It is c e rtain ly a p o ssi b il ity th a t sim il a ri tie s in b a ckg rou n d b e tw e e n Tho m a s and e a rl ier h o m e e co n o m ics p ro f e ss o rs a ll o w e d th e f o r m e r to be d isco u n t e d d e sp it e th e f a c t th a t her co n tribu tio n s w e re a p p recia te d by m a n y . This d iscr im in a tio n if true w o u ld f a ll on t h e s h o u ld e rs of th e o rg a n iz e rs T h is a n d K u rti.

Ge n d e r d iscr im in a tio n m a y not h a v e b e e n th e o n ly rea so n th a t T h o m a s a n d o th e rs w e re m a rg ina li ze d . A n o th e r n a m e th a t h a sn t co m e up y e t but w a s inf lu e n tia l in th e fo rm a tio n of th e f iel d is Ferran A d ri à . A d ri à is co n si d e red o n e of th e b e st c h e f s in th e w o rl d a n d p ract ic e s te ch n iq u e s th a t w o u ld f a ll in th e rea lm of m o lecu lar g a stron o m y .

9 S an P el l eg r i no & A q ua P an na . T he W o r l d s 50 B est R es t au r an t s G ui de 2014 ( 20 14 ) .

In 1 9 8 8 he b e g a n ex p e ri m e n tin g w ith scien ti f i c cu isi n e and o p e n e d h is o w n lab o rat o ry - w o rksho p in 1 9 9 7 to fu rthe r th is st u d y . He w a s one of th e g rea t ch e fs at t h e ti m e w h o w a s u sing m e th o d s b e i n g d iscusse d at th e E ri ce w o rksho p . He w o u ld h a v e b e e n a p e r f e ct e x a m p le of th is new cu isi n e a n d is c o n side red by M cGe e to be t h e m o st inf l u e n tia l p io n e e r of e x p e ri m e n ta l c o o king . B u t he w a s n e v e r inv ite d to E ri ce . Desp ite a ll of t h e t a lk f o r t h e i n n o v a tio n a n d b ir th of m o lecu lar g a stron o m y at E ri ce , o n ly tw o ch e f s e m e rg e d as s e ri o u s ren o w n e d ch e f s. Hest o n B lume n t h a l a n d P ierr e G a g n a ir e , E n g li sh and Fr e n ch re sp e ctiv e ly , w e re th e o n ly t w o to h a v e a t te n d e d th e w o rksho p s a n d tran slat e th a t to rest a u ran t su cc e ss. E v e n th e n B lu m e n th a l o n ly sta rted a t te n d ing in 2 0 0 1 a n d G a g n a ir e in t h e wo rds of M cG e e w a s e n tre a tin g ly a m b iv a len t a b o u t th e te ch n ic a l inn o v a tio n . 10 So th e w o rksho p s w e re n o t inst ru m e n ta l in th e d e v e lop m e n t of any of th e fa m e d g a str o n o m ists. B lu m e n th a l a ctu a ll y a m a z e d th e a sse m b l e d cr o w d w h e n he a tt e n d e d w h e n he d e m o n strat e d w hat w a s o ccu rr ing in th e o u tsid e w o rl d . E v e n th e se tw o had so m e t h ing in co m m o n w ith th e o th e r m e m b e rs of th e w o rksho p and th a t w a s th e re n a tio n a li ty . T h e co m p o sition of t h e w o rksho p p a rtici p a n ts w a s d e cide d ly Fr e n ch a n d E n g li sh f o c u se d . A d ri à w a s S p a n i sh a n d no ch e f w o rki n g in S p a in w a s e v e r inv ite d . E v e n K u rti w h o w a s of Hun g a ri a n b ir th w a s n o tice a b ly Fr e n ch a n d E n g li sh in h is d e m e a n o r. He sp o ke b o th Fr e n ch and E n g li sh and e v e n a tt e n d e d th e S o r b o n n e in P a ri s d u ri n g h is e a rl ier y e a rs. He w a s a m e m b e r o f th e Roy a l S o ciet y and g a v e h is cr a ckli n g is su p e rb t a lk in f ron t of th e d e ci d e d l y E n g li sh a u d ien ce . He rv e T h is w a s a co m p l e te Fr e n ch m e n w ith h is e d u ca ti o n c o m ing in Fr a n ce a l o n g w it h w o rki n g f o r th e co u n tries g o v e rnm e n t on m u ltiple o cca sio n s. The re has a lw a y s b e e n a sig n i f ican c e

10 H arol d M cG ee , T he C urio us C oo k : M ore K i t che n S ci en ce and Lo r e . ( W i l ey , A pril 1992)

th a t c o m e s w ith Fr e n c h cu isi n e . W i th its l o n g and ri ch h isto ry Fr e n c h cu isi n e has b e e n se e n as t h e p inn a cl e of c u li n a ry e x p e rtise sin ce th e e n d of t h e Fr e n ch Rev o lut ion . As a resu lt it is n o t u n co m m o n to a ss o ciat e th o s e of Fr e n c h o ri g in as m o re a b le c h e f s . T h is th e o ry does n o t just a p p ly to th e S p a n ish as s o m e o n e li ke E li z a b e t h T h o m a s co u ld h a v e b e e n d iscr im in a te d a g a inst fo r her A m e ri ca n n a tio n a li ty . It is n o t u n co m m o n f o r o ld w o rl d p rejud ice to e x ist. E v e n m a n y of th e n a m ing of new te ch n iq u e s a re n a m e d in Fr e n ch su c h as so u s v ide w h ich m e a n s co o ki n g under v a cu u m . It is im p o ssi b le to e x a m ine m o lec u lar g a stron o m y w ith o u t a n a ly z ing th e stig m a s th a t h a v e been a sso ciat e d w ith ce rtain n a tio n a li tie s.

A f te r lo o king at t h e h ist o r y of g a stro n o m y f ro m t h e p e rspe c tiv e of th e sto ry th a t has b e e n to ld , as w e ll as w h a t a ct u a ll y h a p p e n e d and th e d iscr im in a tio n s a g a inst ce rtain p a rties it b e co m e s n e ce ss a ry to loo k at w h y th e sto ry w a s c h o se n . W h y a re T h is and K u rti c o n sid e red t h e tw o f a t h e rs of m o lecu lar g a stron o m y whe n th e re a re so m a n y o t h e r co n tribu t o rs? W i t h t h e b e n e f it of h ind sig h t it b e co m e s v e ry clea r w h y th e sto ry of This a n d K u rti w a s ch o se n . B o t h ch e f s a re m a le w ith d e cide d ly Fr e n ch inf l u e n c e s a n d f it w e ll i n to t h e o u tsi d e rs p e rsp e ctiv e of m o lecu l a r g a stron o m y . The y a re scien tists f ir st w h o tu rn e d to f o o d a f t e r e ith e r o ld a g e or c u ri o sity led th e m to a p p ly scien ce to fo o d . T h e y w e re close f ri e n d s d e s p ite K u rti b e ing o v e r f o rty y e a rs o lde r th a n T h is. K u rti w a s a b l e to a ct as a m e n to r of so rt s fo r T h is w h o h a d t h e a b il ity to sta rt h is inv e stig a tio n s at a m u c h y o u n g e r a g e a n d n o t be one of th e f e w inv o lv e d in th e f i e ld. In a d d itio n , d e sp it e b e ing a b it cy n ical, t h e d e a th of K u rti a ll o w e d h i m to im m o rtaliz e d as a fo u n d e r of th e f iel d . This to o k a d v a n t a g e of K u rti s d e a th by a tt a ch i n g th e n a m e of h is d e p a rted c o ll e a g u e to t h e w o rksho p of w h ich he w a s th e p ri m a ry o rg a n iz e r. In no w a y

is it im p li e d th a t t h is was p u rp o se fu ll y done by T h is. T h e e ff e ct is th a t T h is w a s a b le to p e rm a n e n tly a tt a ch h i m se l f to K u rti s leg a cy one w h ich w a s o n ly e n h a n c e d by h is trag ic p a ssing . As th e f ield g a ine d m o re a n d m o re ste a m th e E ri ce w o rksho p p rov ide d a stron g sta rting p o in t th a t a ll o w e d p e o p l e to classif y a d e f init e sta rt a n d e n d . T h is n a rr a tiv e w h il e co n v e n ien t has b e e n sh o w n inco rr e ct b u t a it has b e e n p rov e n t h a t in m a n y ca se s th a t t h e cl e a n n a rr a tiv e is p re fe rr e d o v e r th e trut h w h e n it co m e s to u n d e rstan d ing h isto ry . This n a rr a tiv e b e c a m e so w ide sp rea d th a t T h is h im se l f e v e n fo cu se d on t h is n a rr a ti v e in a 2 0 0 5 p a p e r. He a ckn o w led g e s so m e of th e p rev iou s w o rk su ch as L a v o isi e r a n d Cou n t R u m fo rd b u t d o e s n o t a ck n o w led g e a n y of t h e h o m e e co n o m ics p ro f e ss o rs or E li z a b e th T h o m a s. 11 T h is ins te a d cr e a te s a d e li n e a te d by sa y ing th a t K u rti a n d This inco rr e ctly d e f ine d t h e f iel d w h e n th e y f ir st sta rted a n d th a t m o lec u lar g a stron o m y w a s th e scien ce of c u li n a ry p roce ss a n d t h a t w h a t had c o m e b e f o re w a s th e scie n ce of ing red ie n ts. This f a ct m a y be true b u t T h is e a sil y ca sts a side th e w o rk of t h o se w h o ca m e b e fo re and d o e s not a ckn o w led g e p e o p l e li ke T h o m a s w h o w e re inst rum e n ta l in th e f o u n d a tio n of th is new f ield a n yw a y . Ov e ra ll th e n a rr a tiv e m a ke s se n s e . It is e a s y to u n d e rstan d f o r a la y m a n a n d co n f o r m s to so m e of th e p rejud ices th a t m a y h a v e been pr e se n t at th e tim e .

T h is has not b e e n an a tt e m p t to u n d e rm in e or se ll sh o rt t h e w o rk of K u rti a n d T h is. T h e y w e re o b v iou sly v e r y inv o l v e d in th e p roce ss a n d d e se rv e a sh a re of th e cr e d it. T h e a rg u m e n t is th a t th e re a re o t h e rs w h o h a v e b e e n n o t g iven t h e cr e d it th e y d e se rv e a n d w h o sh o u ld be c o n sid e red a lon g side th e tw o su p p o se d fo u n d e rs. This is e sp e cially true w h e n lo o king at t h e re a so n s why so m e of t h e se p e o p le m a y h a v e b e e n

11 H erv e T hi s, Food f or t o m or r ow ? H ow t he sci en t i f i c di sci pl i ne of m ol ecu l ar g ast r on omy cou l d cha ng e t he w ay we eat . E M B O REP ( 7 ( 11 ) ) N ov ember 2007. do i : 10 . 10 3 8/sj.e m bo r . 74 00 85 0

o m itt e d fo r rea s o n s s u ch as g e n d e r or n a tio n a li ty . Narr a tiv e s a re p o w e rf u l. The y a re su ccinct , e a sil y d ig e stib le a n d in th e b e s t of c a se s tru e . B u t w h e n th e n a rr a tiv e stray s f ro m t h e true st o ry and co m p lex int e ract io n s a re b o il e d o u t, it does a d isserv ice to th o s e w h o se w o rk sh o u ld n o t be fo rg o tt e n . P e o p le l ike E li z a b e th T h o m a s m a d e m o lec u lar g a stron o m y and t h e g a th e ri n g of p e o p le p o ssi b le. P e o p le li ke B e ll e L o w e laid th e g rou n d w o rk on w h ich fo o d sci e n ce w a s b u il t and s h e in tu rn w o rked o ff t h e d iscov e ri e s of p e o p le li ke L a v o isi e r. T h is p roc e ss w a s by no m e a n s li n e a r. S till th e tru e sto ry , w h il e a li tt le m e ssier, g iv e s cr e d it w h e re it is d u e and a ll o w s a p rop e r u n d e rstan d ing of th e so cial co n d ition s th a t a cco m p a n ie d t h is f ield . At th e v e ry lea st we a re close r to u n d e rstan d ing w h a t h a p p e n s in a so u ff l é .

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21H.S01 Food in American History

Fall 20 14

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